The venue for Asger Juel Larsen’s (AJL) SS15 show was chosen to be an old factory building at ‘Papirøen’ (The Paper Ireland) in Copenhagen.
In the middle of the catwalk sides AJL has implemented two stages where a rock band played the soundtrack to the show, and the noises of the playing rock band came out from an impressive sound system installed for the show.
The show included a lot of rock, punk and neon and called for futuristic feelings. There was coated denim, distressed sweaters and oversized pea coats.
The models had long dark 80’s hair and wore sunglasses and black army boots, and some of the designs were in flashy green and orange colours.
AJL showed his first collections at London fashion week after he graduated from London College of Fashion and decided afterwards to move back to Copenhagen and start up his business.
AJL recently won the inaugural menswear award in the Woolmark Europe competition, beating out designers like Pavel Ivancic, Vladimir Karaleev, and Cedric Jacquemyn. His judges included Style.com’s Tim Blanks, Colette’s Sarah Andelman, and Hermès’ Véronique Nichanian.
Jean//Phillip showcased his SS15 collection in the beautiful surroundings of The Royal Danish Academy of Music in Copenhagen. This time the designer was inspired by mass murders and their psychotic ways of working and living. Characters as Dexter and Hannibal Lecter have been some of the inspiration sources behind the designs.
The psychotic feeling was already noticeable when the show started with a flickering light show and heavy, deep music provided by Simon Witzansky. In addition to the psychotic light and music the models had their hair plastered to their faces and some of them were wearing a black grim showpiece-mask that covered the most of their faces.
Previously Jean//Phillip has also designed women’s wear, but this time was only about menswear. The collection included loose pants and tank tops of soft materials, u-necks, leather details and zipped panels, transparent items, parka coats, slim-fit blazers, patterns in black and white and a lot of designs in red.
Everyone is elsewhere, even when looking directly at you, this intensity of objectivity mistaken for coldness. Virginie Khateeb acquires her light as it passes through the state of simply being.
Working predominantly in black and white, when colour does appear, Virginie reveals this light in its darkest version of its primary state. Reminiscent of a garland of coloured incandescent bulbs that one can only find these days in a hardware store with stock from an era slowly losing ground. Her colours come through straight on, sharp and painterly, Gerhard Richter-like with the influence of Sarah Moon; punctuating the subject matter in an aura of vanitas. Her nature is sinew-esque, life pumps in shallow, moderate breaths through its veins, cool yet temperate. These are places you could go to and you would be okay. Marble and palm, runway lights, rock, blood and bathwater, they move in tonal unison.
Text by Bianca Bondi
Photography by Virginie Khateeb | S/TUDIO
SOME/WHERE : 'THE ABSENCE ALOUD, REVERBERATING ACROSS THE INVISIBLE CROSSROADS' BERLIN JEWISH MUSEUM